The Nakasendo trail is a trail between Edo (former Tokyo) and Kyoto. One of the best locations is in the Kiso Valley. Walking between Magome and Tsumago was my personal highlight of Japan. The hike is around 8 kilometres, and it goes through gorgeous forests and lovely villages. This is something you cannot miss in Japan, so keep reading for more information!

Price: Free

Tourist occurrence: Low

How to get here: Two hours by public transport from Nagoya

How much time needed: The hike is around 2.5-3 hours, but you can extend it with one more hour to Nakiso Station. Besides, you can spend some time in Magome and Tsumago. 

What is the Nakasendo trail?

During the Edo Period (1603-1868), the Nakasendo trail was one of the main highways in Japan, going from Edo to Kyoto. The route was 534 kilometres long. Nowadays you still walk parts of the trail, which sometimes gives fantastic views, villages, and more, but I only did the part between Magome and Tsumago.

Where to stay?

Some people stay in Magome or Tsumago itself, which is a good option, but in the Kiso Valley there are multiple accommodations in nature. Often accommodations have transportation towards the villages, so you can do a perfect hike between the hikes.

Transportation

Between the villages there are buses going, so you can transport easily, but you have to check the time schedule as they do not go often. Sometimes accommodations arrange transportation. If you do not stay in the area, there are organisations that can transport your luggage.

The Hike between Magome and Tsumago

The part between Magome and Tsumago is around 8 kilometres. The hike is pretty easy, but there are differences in level, so you need to climb sometimes. This hike will take about 2-3 hours. I will talk about the route and some recommendations. 

What direction should I walk?

You can walk from Magome to Tsumago or from Tsumago to Magome. My personal opinion is to start in Magome, because the route is more descending than the other way around, so it is a bit easier. Besides, the village of Tsumago is a bit more authentic, so you will end with the better village in my opinion. Moreover, if you want to walk even further after the 8-kilometre hike, you can walk further (see later below). I will talk for this direction, but of course, you can do it the other way around.

Magome

Magome is a very cute village, which is nice to have a small hike through. You will see some very traditional houses, water mills, shops, and more. Magome is the perfect beginning of the trail. There are signs to show you the route to Tsumago. In the beginning you will have to walk up. 

First viewpoint

Just outside the small village of Magome you will have the next highlight of the hike: an amazing view. There is kind of a platform where you can stand. This may be the best view of the entire hike. Make sure you have a stop here and take some photographs.

Bear bells

If you walk further, it is mostly uphill, so it can be rough. This is the toughest part of the hike. There are signs that there are bears in the area, so be careful. There are also many bear bells you can ring to keep bears at a distance. For me personally, I hoped to find bears (at a safe distance), so we did not ring a bell. There are also people having a bell with them the whole time, which annoyed me, to be honest, so I avoided these people. 

The highest point

You will walk further through fantastic nature and very small but cool villages. After about 45 minutes of walking, you will reach the highest point, and there is a nice view. Some people are going back, but that is a shame. From here the hike will be easier, and you will mostly descend. 

Have a stop at the teahouse 

On about half of the hike you will find a very cosy teahouse, where you can grab some tea for free and have a rest. You can also grab a sweet. This is a perfect stop, as it is very sympathetic and authentic. It depends on the weather if it's hot or cold tea. Do not forget to leave a donation! You can also show where you are from on a board. From here, you will proceed to descend.

Have a small detour for some waterfalls

At some point there is an option to go to the left and to the right. The route proceeds to the right, but if you go left, you can find Odaki and Medaki Falls. These are nice to walk to, but there are good chances that you have seen more impressive waterfalls. However, the detour is around 10 minutes total (5 minutes one way), so why would you skip it? Afterwards walk back and proceed descending the Nakasendo trail through lovely nature and cute villages. You only have to do the last part!

Tsumago

After the last part of pretty flat paths, you would enter the authentic village of Tsumago. Tsumago is fantastic to walk around and perfect to have lunch here. We had some great lunch with wagyu beef here. You can walk around here and enjoy the amazing atmosphere. The village is small but great to stroll through. From here you can go to your accommodation or walk a bit further.

Extend the hike to Nagiso Station

If you want to extend your hike, you can! From Tsumago you can walk about 4 kilometres extra towards Nagiso Station. The hike is a bit less gorgeous than before, but it is still nice. It is more flat, and you will be walking more through villages than nature, but there is some nature as well. The walk is about 45 minutes to an hour and worth it! In Nagiso, there is not much to see except a cool bridge.

Final Thoughts

For me, this hike was one of the absolute highlights of Japan. The authenticity of the fantastic villages, the lovely paths, and the incredible nature make this hike a unique sight in the country. It is a bit difficult to get to, but it is totally worth it! For me, you can't miss this area. You can also find some onsen in the area. 

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